Lotus Family Restaurant has been in business since 1980. Strange I have only recently discovered it. I lived in Memphis three years and had no idea it existed. Unlike some Vietnamese restaurants in the Bluff City, it is a dinner-only place. The exterior looks sketchy, and the interior reminds patrons that clutter can be comforting. Really, the decor has no real theme, and I kid you not, he has the venerable poker dogs hanging as a tapestry to the right of the entrance. The 'he' to whom I refer is Joe. Joe is the owner, and I think his wife does the cooking. I went on a very cold night, and Joe apparently is cost-conscious when it comes to utility bills. The place was sparsely inhabited, and the folks there were visibly uncomfortable with the barely 60 degree temperature. I didn't shed my coat during the meal. Reviews say it takes a long time to get food, but I only waited 10 minutes. I ordered the pho. Normally different options of pho are presented on a menu, such as brisket or tripe. Not here. It's just pho. But it was fine pho. The broth was perfect. Pho can be very salty in its lesser incarnations, but this stuff was beautiful. Think of chicken noodle soup with many more dimensions of flavor. It was the perfect meal for consumption in a under-heated establishment as I could feel my innards respond with a satisfactory glow within seconds of ingesting its wholesome goodness. I ordered chili sauce on the side (apparently the only option...usually in other such restaurants all the garnishments are presented on separate plate for the guest to choose). My nasal passages were definitely stimulated, but it wasn't a painful burn.
I was the last person to leave that evening, but before I did I had a 45 minute conversation with Joe. He seems to be a gentle man with many stories he is willing to share if one is willing to listen. He spoke of how he emigrated from Vietnam after the war, and as many older Asians are apt to do, he told me all about his children and extended family. Don't go here if you are in a hurry. Go for a quiet meal in a delightfully haphazard environment with time to savor the food and experience for what it is, and to accept what it is not.
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